Quote from illiquid:
Thx for the tip. How loose will you go with starting hands? Suited connectors obviously for cheap, but will you play one or even 2-gappers and hope for lightning to strike? I suppose that's a matter of how aggressive/passive the table is.
depends a lot on bank roll in relation to that of others and the blinds in relation to my bank roll, as well as position and as you mentioned the styles of the other players. If I'm in good position I'll take gambles playing J7u and such. Otherwise I'll stick to suited connectors or stuff like K9s, A10u, etc. In smaller games, I'll obviously play crappier hands but will be out on the flop unless I have something playable, 1 card draw, or if it's very cheap or I sense weakness. It's a complex game, but unless you're playing against world class people, your opponents will make plenty of mistakes. That's the biggest difference I see between poker and trading, trading markets you're up against the biggest, best, and brightest. Playing poker, you decide who your opponents are and they're sitting right in front of you with their intentions in full view. Learn to calculate odds (outs/pot/implied/etc.) and you'll already be leaps and bounds ahead of most players who have no 'ruler' by which to measure whether, for example, a bet is big/small or a raise is justified (this is your greatest edge).
edit: here's an example of picking up edge over your opponents using pot odds
you have 10Ju in the pocket, flop is 89A rainbow. 7 or Q will make the straight for you, let's say it's you vs. one other guy. You see 5 cards (flop plus hole) out of 52, and any of the 4 7s or 4 Qs will make your straight, so you have 8 outs out of 47 cards (17% chance of making the straight on the turn and approximately the same on the river, so 34% chance of getting the straight by the end of the hand if calculated on the flop). The pot is currently 100 and your opponent bets 10, calling the 10 will give you 10:110 (R:R), however you have a ~30% chance of hitting the nuts at this point, so you can feel free to raise until your R:R is 1:3, for example a raise to 40 would give you 40:110, if called even better 40:150. This is straight odds playing, you of course need to incorporate other factors as well into your play such as knowledge of the player (is he loose/tight) and how much money you have (if you have $200, you might consider going all-in, if you have $2000 then the play described above is much more prudent). You get the idea