need help on nailing pine wood on dry wall

H

Happy Hopping

http://www.structuredhomewiring.com/images/InsulatedHorizontalWires.jpg

I planned to put some wainscot, so called tongue and groove Knotty pine wood on my drywall for about 38 in tall from the ground up

The dry walls is behind 2 x 4 (see photo from link) that is 16 inches apart. The tongue and groove panel is about 16.5 cm wide or 6.496 inch wide.

So if I nail them at 45 degree at the tongue, every 2 out of 3 piece, I would have nothing to nail the tongue to. As they won't stick well behind the dry wall.

What can I do?
 
Quote from Happy Hopping:

http://www.structuredhomewiring.com/images/InsulatedHorizontalWires.jpg

I planned to put some wainscot, so called tongue and groove Knotty pine wood on my drywall for about 38 in tall from the ground up

The dry walls is behind 2 x 4 (see photo from link) that is 16 inches apart. The tongue and groove panel is about 16.5 cm wide or 6.496 inch wide.

So if I nail them at 45 degree at the tongue, every 2 out of 3 piece, I would have nothing to nail the tongue to. As they won't stick well behind the dry wall.

What can I do?
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you can apply the wainscotting-look wallpaper instead.

sorry but wainscotting is a pain. besides your problem, there's another one you'll encounter: there will be areas of the drywall that aren't true or flat, and then you'll have gaps to deal with.
 
Quote from nutmeg:

I would glue it.
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Yeah, there is plenty of ready made wainscotting available, especially the beadboard stuff that has become very popular. It's not at all difficult to install, the only tricky parts are making the cuts to provide openings for electrical plates, but again that is nothing too difficult.
 
Quote from nutmeg:

I would glue it.
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Yep. The other way is to put a row of horizontal backing a foot from the bottom, and another one about 30" from the bottom. Then nail into those.
 
Quote from Good1:

Yep. The other way is to put a row of horizontal backing a foot from the bottom, and another one about 30" from the bottom. Then nail into those.
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That is a good idea, esp if you need to shim out a wavy wall. You could shim the furring strips.
 
thanks for all the reply. Because the wood does bend in the near future, glue is out.

I'll nail 1 nail at the tongue at the bottom to the 2x4 at the bottom.

But the top, where the 2 x 4 that should be there every 16 inch, is not really there every 16 in. So I have to screw 1 screw every stud and in between there is just the tongue (and the bottom nail) to mount the 38 inch wainscot together.

However, if there is any further idea, please let me know
 
Quote from Good1:

Yep. The other way is to put a row of horizontal backing a foot from the bottom, and another one about 30" from the bottom. Then nail into those.
More...

listen to this guy
 
If that's a true picture of your building (no sheetrock yet) put blocking between the studs. If you already have sheetrock, that means your wood will be farther out than the sheetrock anyway, so put furring strips across the top and bottom and one (or two if want more nailing) across the middle. Cap the top with a piece of wood which can act as a mini-mantle that mama can put trinkets on. Make that cap a little wider and you can put a beer on it while you shoot pool.
 
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