Closed marketâs valediction ironically explains its failure
POSTED AT 11:36 AM ON NOVEMBER 12, 2010 BY ED MORRISSEY
There are few things more annoying than people blaming their failures on others. There are few things more ironically humorous than watching a clueless person publicly scold people and in the process reveal his or her own ignorance. And since examples of both at the same time come along so rarely, we have to take a good look at the Boston Heraldâs report on the closing of Don Ottoâs Market, a niche food market in Bostonâs South End, where the management briefly posted a tirade against its customers for failing to buy what the owners demanded:
In a way, though, this is an allegory of elitism in general. McLaughlin couldnât pass laws to make sure that people could only buy her $28-per-pound steak, but she certainly sounds as if she would have done so if given the opportunity. Her contempt for her customers is not dissimilar to the contempt shown by those in political office who pass laws barring restaurants from using saturated fats in their cooking, who ban Happy Meals, and who overhaul entire economic sectors because they believe people canât make their own choices.
It looks as though McLaughlin at least learned that blaming customers for not surrendering to her diktats in the name of âinvestmentâ makes for bad public relations. The valediction has disappeared from the website, replaced by a simple notice that Don Ottoâs is closed.
Update: It looks as though arrogance really was the business plan, and it only took six months to fail. Lee Doren sent over a Boston Globe story from May reporting on the new ownership and its goals:
POSTED AT 11:36 AM ON NOVEMBER 12, 2010 BY ED MORRISSEY
There are few things more annoying than people blaming their failures on others. There are few things more ironically humorous than watching a clueless person publicly scold people and in the process reveal his or her own ignorance. And since examples of both at the same time come along so rarely, we have to take a good look at the Boston Heraldâs report on the closing of Don Ottoâs Market, a niche food market in Bostonâs South End, where the management briefly posted a tirade against its customers for failing to buy what the owners demanded:
Actually, it was more revealing than McLaughlin realizes. Perhaps she has spent too much time in Barney Frankâs district (he was a customer), but businesses donât succeed by telling customers what they should want to buy. Customers have this annoying tendency to know how they want to spend their own money, and businesses succeed by adapting to demand, not demanding that customers adapt to the ownerâs own tastes in supply. And if people wanted to âinvestâ in Don Ottoâs, they would have bought stock in it rather than food they donât want at prices that discouraged sales.The manager of Don Ottoâs â a recently shuttered food market in the South End â is blaming neighborhood patrons for its untimely demise, cooking up an angry message to fair-weather fans of the Tremont Street eatery.
âDon Ottoâs Market wants to say we had few customers that understood customer loyalty and its importance to our business,â a message on its Web site reads, later adding: âIf you came in only for baguettes, the occasional piece of cheese, the occasional dinner . . . you can not tell yourself you were a supporter of our market.â
The scalding remonstrance was written by Erin McLaughlin, 28, who ran the shop and is engaged to the owner, Michael Otto, 31.
âIt was quite frank,â she acknowledged yesterday. âPeople donât understand their purchases make a difference, and that by buying something that wasnât exactly what you want, it gets you closer to what you want. Itâs an investment.â
In a way, though, this is an allegory of elitism in general. McLaughlin couldnât pass laws to make sure that people could only buy her $28-per-pound steak, but she certainly sounds as if she would have done so if given the opportunity. Her contempt for her customers is not dissimilar to the contempt shown by those in political office who pass laws barring restaurants from using saturated fats in their cooking, who ban Happy Meals, and who overhaul entire economic sectors because they believe people canât make their own choices.
It looks as though McLaughlin at least learned that blaming customers for not surrendering to her diktats in the name of âinvestmentâ makes for bad public relations. The valediction has disappeared from the website, replaced by a simple notice that Don Ottoâs is closed.
Update: It looks as though arrogance really was the business plan, and it only took six months to fail. Lee Doren sent over a Boston Globe story from May reporting on the new ownership and its goals:
And customersâ shopping habits rely on how much things cost in relation to value as they perceive it, a lesson Otto learned the hard way. There is nothing wrong with trying a business model and failing; thatâs how innovation works. But itâs beyond arrogant to blame customers for not paying exorbitant amounts of money for items they didnât perceive as valuable just to support a failing business model.Prepared foods include duck leg confit and a popular veggie lasagna. Otto and Lundberg are continuing to smoke bacon in house. All of the meats sold at the shop are local; prices are high but Otto says customers are coming in regularly with weekly meat orders that top $400.
Ottoâs mission is to help shift peopleâs thinking about what food should cost, especially non-manufactured, non-processed foods. Although pricey eggs may not be for everyone, salsa, made in nearby Jamaica Plain, is a bit more accessible for the everyday shopper. The same goes for a jar of cider jelly from Springfield, Vt., that Lundberg has incorporated into pork dishes.
Eggs, from free-range chickens, are $8.50 a dozen. When asked whether people will balk at the cost, Otto shrugs and explains these chickensâ laying routine. âTheir lay cycles rely on the sun, not on artificial lamps that distort production,ââ he says.