Cheap mountain bike?

A

acronym

Thought id ask, figure theres some treadler's here, and the cycling forums........is it just me, or are they insufferable snobs, basically?

Looks like a Giant -boulder would be the minimum, just to be sure it doesnt snap in half on me. The rincon is also good......

Anyone own one?
Feedback from cheaper bikes?
 
I bought GT Zaskar in 1995. Everyone said they were over engineereed with the triple triangle and overdone welds.

I rode it hard for about 5 years.

Its 12 years later and it still rides great. Frame is bomb proof and the cranks and the gears are still smooth as any bike I have ridden.

So I would say the first thing to consider is the geometry but after that get a frame that is considered bomb proof.

also I weigh 225.
 
Quote from acronym:

Thought id ask, figure theres some treadler's here, and the cycling forums........is it just me, or are they insufferable snobs, basically?

Looks like a Giant -boulder would be the minimum, just to be sure it doesnt snap in half on me. The rincon is also good......

Anyone own one?
Feedback from cheaper bikes?
More...

How much do you want to spend?
I would avoid buying a used Cannondale aka Can-of-ale, or any used aluminum (incl scandium) bike. I speak from experience as a guy who had a used Klein frame snap at the headtube. Thankfully I had already finished the major downhill section and the frame gave way at 10mph instead of the 30+ .


You can check some reviews at www.mtbr.com
 
Quote from jem:

I bought GT Zaskar in 1995. Everyone said they were over engineereed with the triple triangle and overdone welds.

I rode it hard for about 5 years.

Its 12 years later and it still rides great. Frame is bomb proof
More...

I've raced cross-country expert class since '91. If you can find a hand built Zaskar LE frame buy it.

Post buy out, GT's just like all the rest.
 
Quote from silver914:

I've raced cross-country expert class since '91. If you can find a hand built Zaskar LE frame buy it.

Post buy out, GT's just like all the rest.
More...

I started racing in 91 too(sport class). Where are you located?

I haven't raced in years but trying to get back into it.

914 area code?
 
Quote from uptik2000:

How much do you want to spend?
I would avoid buying a used Cannondale aka Can-of-ale, or any used aluminum (incl scandium) bike. I speak from experience as a guy who had a used Klein frame snap at the headtube. Thankfully I had already finished the major downhill section and the frame gave way at 10mph instead of the 30+ .


You can check some reviews at www.mtbr.com
More...


Hah, yeah thats where i read the reveiws, just registered there myself, the boulder has a great rep in the price range, 300-500 ish.

Paying much more for something that could be lifted so easily doesnt appeal to me, and i dont plan on any serious riding-havent had a mtb for 15+ years, thought it might be fun to get back into it.

Edit-Im 105 kg or so, so ruggedness and stopping power are the biggest considerations.
 
GT made a titanium Zaskar frame that can be had for a few hundred on ebay, although I don't see one currently.

Used aluminum frames can be risky. It's best to buy new or buy a used titanium or steel rig. Make sure you get a 1 1/8" headtube if buying an older bike.

In cycling you pay for a reduction in weight -- the lighter the bike/components, the more you pay.

Avoid the urge to go full-suspension. Most FS linkages and geometries are sh1t, and it adds a ton of weight.

I built an Independent Fabrications hardtail with a Rohloff hub and it costs as much as a new hyundai. No need to go crazy, $1500 will buy you a great performing hardtail. Buy one of the mountain biking rags and do some shopping on craigslist, ebay and mtbr.com. Have fun.

For titanium:
Independent Fabrications
Moots
 
A used Kona or Voodoo is a good bet, IMO they are the best built bikes and I raced Elite for 3 years on different brands and found anything built and designed by Joe Murray always lasts longest. Also, avoid aftermarket parts other than Shimano. I find gripshift, sram, etc has always been garbage.

Fisher- underweight bikes not meant for anyone over 160 lbs. Broken 2 Procalibers myself.

The GT Zaskar's welds have been known to break, maybe they've changed fabricators. Don't know if this has changed.

If you want a classic bike that lasts, you might find a used Voodoo in So Cal. I strongly recommend them, though the company was shut down in 2001.

Places to look:

Craigslist
Kijiji
Canadian Cyclist classified
 
Yeah, dont want FS, talking to a guy, got himself a new FS $2000 avante, and he reckons it sucks for going uphill-downhill it rocks though.
My last bike was an early (cheap)repco, no suspension, weighed a tonne, crummy components-it copped a hammering, but couldnt kill it, damn near indestructable.

But in flat country, brakes and gears working properly wasnt that important.....its quite hilly here, and 15 kg heavier.......
I actually saw a folding bike looked pretty cool, (i love practicality) but anything fancy would just be a theft magnet......still, there cool.

http://www.onyerbike.com.au/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top