Build Your Own - Step by Step ( i7 2600k)
- Thread starter TIKITRADER
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What the hell's the modem doing in the laundry room????Quote from Sam Morgan:
So this is the problem. I have my router and modem in the laundry room, which is adjacent to my home office. I want to have the rest of the house working on wireless, so the router will remain attached to the modem. I was going to have an ethernet wire (Cat5/6) plugged to the router, run it up the attic and fish it down the office wall (plate would sit behind my desk, which is against the wall - this wall is an exterior wall) and connect it directly to the desktop.
The questions I have are as follows:
1) I'm ok with plugging the ethernet male to the router female. What happens at the plate end? Would I use a female to female coupler (as shown below) at the plate and have the ethernet male plugged to one side of the female-female coupler (from the inside)? This would leave the other female exposed to the outer face of the plate to which I would have another male-male ethernet cable; one end plugged at the plate and the other end going to the desktop. Would this be correct?
2) How do I fish wires up and down the wall (never done it before; handy work inclined)
3) Cat 5 or Cat 6? Prices are roughly the same.
4) Is this type of connection as good as modem-ethernet-desktop connection?
Thanks.
Do you have TV/ISP cable in your office space?
Do you own the house?
Are you limited to one ISP/TV cable connection, do you have cable outlets in other rooms (office behind the desk?)?
I don't understand not moving the modem or wireless access point.
This could get wordy,,, if you want an outlet/wall plate behind your desk against an outside wall, then I have to ask, is the outside wall concrete block? or wood studs? If the wall is an outside wall, where's the roof rafters? how much overhang do you have on your roof and what's the pitch. I ask this because you may find yourself laying in 6/8 inches of insulation in a 130 degree Florida attic (this is why... "we don't do this") just inches from the eves without enough room to stand up a drill gun to drill a hole (not good). Vaulted ceilings are another story altogether, fishing wire against a concrete wall can be next to impossible, for many reasons. Can you get under the house, or is it built on a concrete slab (just asking)?
FYI when I ran "hundreds" of feet of cat cable through my house and outbuilding the buzz word was Cat 5e. Some folks will say you may get slower speeds off longer runs of cable but I have a run of over 100 feet and a speedtest on that computer is no different than directly plugged into the modem.
I might have misunderstood about high temp being the cause.
Read up on wiki if you are interested in the cause of capacitor pops:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
No it's cable modem. Right now, I have a laptop connected to my monitor + one extra laptop
My results are below. However, note that I am subscribed for 10Mbps internet speed. Most of the times (98% ok) the wireless router seems ok. I'm just wondering if it's hard-wired the performance would be better and disruptions would be less, if any.
Plate, as in a Keystone wall plate
Below are the 2 types of connections. Right now, I am set up as 1, but what I want to do is set myself up as 2.
Connection 1: Wireless router is connected to modem and transmits signal wirelessly.
Connection 2: Wireless router is connected to modem. Attach ethernet cable (Cat5/6) to wireless router and connect it to PC (hard-wire)
<img src="http://www.elitetrader.com/vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=3274216.png">
You have subscribed to a 10Mbps internet speed. Your test showed a download of 9.58Mbps. That's pretty darn good!
If I were you, I wouldn't worry about going hardwired. Reasons:
1. You said the wireless router, in the laundry room, is just next to your home office. So your wifi router is very close to your wifi receiver on your PC although they are separated by a wall. Signal attenuation is not a problem. With wifi transmission, the farther away you are from the transmitter the weaker the signal. And the effect is not linear. More like parabolic. Since they are so close to each other, they should be okay.
2. The wireless G standard (802.11g) has an average throughput of 22 Mbit/s. Which is roughly 3Mbps.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11#802.11g
The G router would not be good enough for you. But the wireless N standard (802.11n) has an approximately 300 Mbps of rated (theoretical) bandwidth. That's like... A LOT! A wireless N router and USB wifi dongle should do the job.
The only thing I would worry about is having many devices splitting the wireless bandwidth. If you have only 1 PC, 1 router, stay wifi. 2 PCs, 1 router, still stay wifi. More? then we'll see.
3. It will save you money not having to drill holes on the wall and run cables.
Well... if you take this approach... You don't exactly use the coupler. The coupler is for connecting 2 segments of RJ45 cables. If you are running Cat5/5e/6 cables through the wall, and want to have a Keystone wall plate, you should get 2 of these:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...VCZMTtf6A5HKiAKf3cyCAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CF0Q8wIwAQ#
One for the laundry room, one for your home office.
You run the Cat5/5e/6 cable raw. You would need a RJ45 crimping tool:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...l0l1505926l18l17l0l10l10l0l236l1169l1.4.2l7l0
to crimp the end of the Cat5/5e/6 cable onto the back of the RJ45 female receptable (which will be mounted to the wall face plate).
Do on both sides.
Then you use 2 straight (not crossed) RJ45 patch cords to connect: #1) you PC to the wall. #2) the wall on the other side to the router
Anything else would be a mickey mouse solution.
I mean... you can punch a hole in the wall, and just run a long RJ45 patch cord from your PC through the wall to the router. And a picture of it will end up at Jay Leno's show...Or, if you have a phone or TV/cable outlet already in the room you can use that wire/cable to pull a new Cat cable into the same box.Quote from Bolimomo:
... you can punch a hole in the wall, and just run a long RJ45 patch cord from your PC through the wall to the router.
The PCIe 2.0 x16 video cards will be compatible with the motherboard that has PCIe 1.1.
Read more:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080116135601AAvoy70
See my next post on replacement suggestions.
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