Hap, I was in somewhat the same boat. I never played until recently. Biggest thing I learned was I should have started 40 years earlier. But there's nothing I could do about that.
As for lessons vs. teaching yourself: I was a ski instructor and I also took a lot of tennis lessons in my life. So I am a big believer in lessons.
Some sports, like golf, tennis and skiing require a lot of technique. So trying to teach yourself is a waste of a lot of time when you can actually be improving with the help of lessons. Trial and error works, but not efficiently.
When I was living in Aspen, certainly I knew a lot of 12 year olds who were great skiers and took no (or virtually no) lessons. But learning at a young age is far different than learning as an adult.
You and I talked about guitar lessons. Yeah, you can teach yourself, but lessons are a major shortcut.
Someone said that being able to hit the ball a long way is important. Not so sure about that. I play every Saturday with a lifelong friend. He's been playing forever. I have been playing for 3 years. He can drive the ball over 300 yards. Maybe my best drive is 240 or so......probably average more like 220 (which is short for a male adult). But I can still outscore him. The game is about putting and the short game in general.
Take lessons. Be able to get out of the sand. Be able to get close to the pin from around the green. Even Tiger Woods does not get on the green in regulation as much as MANY of the pros that don't win tournaments. (Nor does he hit a very high percentage of fairways). But getting "up and down" makes up for a lack of accuracy and distance. You can't (usually) as an adult do much about your driving distance after you have been playing for a relatively short time. But the rest of the game you can develop at any age.
Lessons, lessons, lessons!!!
And even though the game is frustrating, and even though I KNOW I will never be very good, I still get great enjoyment out of playing. Again, I wish I had started younger. Great game! I grew up playing baseball, but it's a kids game. Can't play at my age at all. Skiing? Major effort to do, and age makes you lose it. Tennis, again, after a certain age, you just slow down. While golf is perfectly suited for "mature" ages. It's not about how far you can hit the ball. I have played with a lot of much older guys who score very well. They can't hit the ball far at all. But it doesn't matter.
Another thing about lessons: even Tiger Woods takes them. Morgan Pressel, (young lady golfer) is coached by her grandfather. I know her parents fairly well. Without the coaching, she would not be a golfer. (Her uncle is Aaron Krickstein...his father is Morgan's grandfather). The father/grandfather made Aaron and Morgan what they are. So even though it is two different sports, someone who can teach makes all the difference in the world.
Go for it Hap. I love playing, and like I said, my big regret is not having started younger. But lessons are essential. Having fun is essential. DON"T KEEP SCORE

. It makes it more fun. You can forget the bad holes and remember what happens that is good.
AAA's advice is worth re-reading. What he said about being fitted for clubs is MAJOR! And the cost is negligible. Good fitting clubs will help a lot. Expensive clubs will probably be a disadvantage to you as a beginner (forged blades as compared to cast cavity backs...stuff you will learn about very quickly). And as almost all have told you...LESSONS!!!!
Peace,

RS